Sunday, October 04, 2009
LONELIEST ROAD IN AMERICA--PART 2
SEARCHING FOR KODGERS------- AND THE BAR AT THE END OF THE WORLD. Black stones/ white dirt---who could resist such easy roadway renown. Names and messages stretched for 5 miles on both sides.
50 miles from anywhere is this famous bar. Just like in the movies. A somewhat somewhere watering hole for desert life--- perfect wildlife viewing area.
Great movie set. I imagined a bar fight scene erupting out on the dirt.
Women are scarce and precious in the deep desert. Shirt or no shirt, they drink free forever. I saw only one in my 24 hr stay here--leading me to declare the deep desert a TESTOSTERONE ZONE.
Have you seen this before? I have. The entire ceiling was covered. New and desperate immortality seekers going vertical and overlapping---barkeep estimated $8000 total.
Heard about this--had to see it with my own eyes---guy named Jesus something. Still I was suspicious--climed on the bar to get this shot---discovered the secret. Look closely and you can see it too.
Finally, my codger hunt got under way---found this hodge podge in the remotes. Someone lives here but he wouldn't come out. His little dog, however, was terrified-- ran madly away into the desert---not barking or defending its territory. I've learned that Kids and dogs that grow up in remote solitude are not bold and self reliant as you would expect but timid and fearful as a rule. Bold confidence requires social beginnings. Older folks that retreat to the desert---are another story.
Not far away, I came upon this base camp for an apparantly genuine mobile codger. My instinct steered me clear of this one.
But not this one----I bicycled quietly upon him and waited---sound asleep--and stayed that way---took this photo and let him be.
Before dark, I accumulated lots of neighbors--all very friendly---invited me to their fire at night--They dress in elegant armor--their aim:-- to drink in huge gulps of desert adventure---often traveling 175 miles in a giant circuit---"weird and wonderful stuff out there" they said. Ghosts towns, mines, gaping earthquake fault lines.
Four grandfathers, friends and motorcyclist together for 40 years. Note how well armored. Gave them a tour of my trailer in exchange for the story.
Away they all roared like a Viking horde.
See their dust in the distance? They're headed to the top of that mountain. Perhaps I've stumbled onto the secret of eternal youth---adventure on!
Slow internet connection has delayed this posting. Next I will report on a really deep desert codger I found later this same day.